Secondhand Retail – What’s the appeal?

The world is getting more expensive. Prices are inflating at a faster pace than ever imaginable, and, for most, a trip to the mall costing upwards of $200 for new clothes just isn’t sustainable. But teens in America have found a loophole to dressing fresh and spending less. Within the past decade, the U.S. thrifting scene has exploded with the second hand retail market being valued at around $56 billion. The market’s value is estimated to increase to around $393 billion by 2030, according to the ThreadUp Resale Report, a rate two times greater than that of regular apparel market growth.

Increased exposure of thrift stores through social media and the option of spending less on clothing should explain thrifting’s booming market, but Depop, an online platform that has been deemed as one of the most popular forms of purchasing second hand clothing, is selling vintage name brand tops for as much as $370. So why has the fashion community latched on to thrifting and other platforms like Depop if not to save money?

A small vintage outlet in Jamaica Plain contains the answer. 40 South St. Vintage, formerly called Gumshoe, prides itself as being a hidden gem in the city of Boston. The pieces found inside are a collection of high quality ‘60s,‘70s, and ‘80s style clothing ranging from casual T-shirts and Levi’s to elegant silk pajamas that can be quite pricey. What was previously a small warehouse in the ‘90s has been completely transformed into a quaint, and eye-catching shop by current owner Hilken Mancini.

Before becoming a vintage shop owner Mancini was an upcoming musician, until she was dropped by her record label and needed to find a way to make money.  She did so by selling vintage items at a small store down the street from 40 South, and after being asked by her neighbor who owned 40 South St at the time to sell women’s vintage at the store she came to own it.

“I always loved thrifting…You don’t get a lot of money as a tour musician, and there’s not a lot to do between sound check and the show…so you go to the thrift stores.”, Mancini said after being asked what inspired her to work in vintage and become an owner of her very own store.

When asked why people are so drawn to thrifting and vintage, Mancini believes that recently, distinctiveness has become integral to those in the fashion community. “I think that it’s a time period in life where people want to be unique…and find a piece that speaks to them.”

Mancini is also a protester of fast fashion, and believes that people in the fashion community have shifted to shopping second hand to boycott corporate shopping. “I think that people are realizing that fast fashion isn’t ethically something you should do.”

Fast fashion is defined as the business model of fast overproduction, marketing, and cheap products, some examples being H&M, Shein and Zara. These brands maximize their exposure and use the fast fashion business model to obtain the most profit, but they also end up causing detrimental damage to the environment. According to a Business Insider article, fashion production makes up for 10% of  global carbon emissions, and the rapid production of clothing by fast fashion companies is only increasing the amount of pollution and accelerating climate change. These brands also use copious amounts of non-biodegradable materials like polyester, nylon, and acrylic when overproducing their clothing, which pollute the ocean when disposed of and will stay as ocean waste for decades.

Fast fashion companies also have a history of worker mistreatment, with reports from a US Department of Labor study of child labor and forced working in China, India, Indonesia and several other countries.

Thrifting is by far a better option than buying clothes from fast fashion brands that contribute significantly to climate change and thrive off of human exploitation, not only because it can often be cheaper but also because there are more unique pieces available to elevate your own personal style. And as Hilken Mancini says:

“Stop giving a shit and just buy stuff that speaks to you and that you think is cool. Just think for yourself.”